Sunday, December 30, 2012

Photos (with imagination)

There are many photos I wish I could take in India, that I can't. Partly because my camera is rubbish and partly because I seem to have less inclination to whip out my camera and take pictures of scenes around me than I thought I would have. So, here we are. A far from perfect gallery of photos taken from memory. Click.


Kites. A small boy with no legs flying one on the side of the road in front of a Vodafone shop, balancing on his stumps. Two children flying from different corrugated rooftops, seen from a rickshaw on the highway, on the outskirts of the largest slum in Asia. Tin roofs like water surrounding them on all sides.

The fish market. A slit through a curtain to a larger world set underneath board and tin and metal.  Blood and scales dripping onto a dirt and concrete floor. Chickens piled on top of one another, eggs collecting underneath for sale. Fisherman’s wives in saris and bangles slicing through fish skin and bone on wooden stumps, wielding long knifes. Dark and loud and exciting. The morning’s catch from the Arabian sea set out to sell. A lone white kitten, just a few weeks old, crying pitifully among discarded fish heads. Fingers of sunlight dissolving on the walls.

Cricket. A group of fifty men crowded together on the street to watch the match on a small 10-inch screen set inside a shop window. Boys playing an improntu game in the garden, using a tennis ball. Old men watching behind them.

Temples. A woman ringing a bell and placing her hands at her chest, before walking forward on a white floor.

Land’s End. Couples cuddling together underneath trees and on patches of dry grass, the only place they can be together since most people never come to the suburbs. Smiling in front of the sea.

The Street. School children dodging BMWs and auto-rickshaws, holding tight to each others school bags, as they cross a busy road. Women carrying infants with no pants, tapping on car windows asking for change. Perhaps a toddler tailing behind her. A rooster. Four donkeys. Two goats. A Rolls Royce, its features identifiable even through a white vehicle cover, being guarded by a man in a suit in front of the Taj Hotel.

Monday, December 24, 2012

Rape in Delhi


The Delhi gang rape is all the talk here. If you haven't heard of it - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-20807526.

It is interesting seeing this tragedy unfold as an outsider. One thing that I have barely seen, in all the media coverage, is an earnest discussion concerning the underlying causes of how women are viewed in this country. The mindset of patriarchy that exists here. Of how traditional ideas concerning the role of women fit into the "modern" India.

It is awful that women are raped in India/World. This case in particular is...beyond heartbreaking. However, here has been little talk of the millions of missing girls and women, killed at birth for being born female. Or dowry suicides. Or women's health. Illiteracy. Lack of education.

Look small, resolve small.

P.S. I have seen very thoughtful discussions published online - here is a good one.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/riddhi-shah/new-delhi-gangrape-why-we_b_2341728.html






Indian Christmas

Christmas Eve and I am at the highrise, alone, since Shradha's grandmother is not well and the family is with her. I feel so badly and am trying not to be in the way during this difficult time. Mostly, I feel for Shradha - she has had so much stress lately and was hoping this trip back home would be relaxing. I pray the last week will be.

HOWEVER, I am happily on the couch, listening to Bing Crosby, gazing lovingly at my Christmas "Tree" (more like a fern) and thinking of heating up lamb biryani.

Mumbai is a TRIP. But, I like it. It reminds me of Manhattan in a way. It moves so fast. Expect the traffic, which moves incredibly incredibly slow.

The hardest part, so far, has been the children. I "dealt with" (oh, first world problems) my first child begger earlier in the week. I didn't give her anything, partly because I didn't have change, but also because the family told me not to. At what point does humanity become a nuisance? I suppose you must develop a sort of callousness to it, or else you couldn't live here. Children sitting without pants in the dirt and begging you for money to eat. And you can justify it all you want - that the money doesn't really go to them, that it is a scam, what have you. But, at the end of the day, India is still a country with a heartbreakingly high child mortality rate and gross economic inequality. And its not a statistic - its RIGHT in front of you.

Perhaps not the cheeriest of Christmas ponderings. But I feel like God would be okay with that.

I find God EVERYWHERE here. From churches to mosques to temples to shrines. In the way people talk and in their schedules. God, yes, takes many different forms here. But Christmas, and the glory of Christ, is absolutely not lost here. I see Him in it all.

Off to eat and find a Christmas movie to watch. Lighting Diwali candles tomorrow for the holiday and making spice cake. 

The Auto-Rickshaw Roller Coaster

Auto-Rickshaws are INSANE.


If you are not about to be creamed on the interstate by a bus or a zooming beemer, than you are drowning in truck exhaust behind some mammoth excuse of an automobile. And they don't stop for ambulances! Or move over, half the time.

There is something quite...exciting about it though. Like, my friend Shradha said, a roller coaster. It goes up and down and all around, you have nothing to grab a hold of but a metal bar in front of you and there is the slight possibility you may die. Or fall out (did I mention there are NO DOORS?). The streets fly past you, glimpses of color and people and shops and dogs - women bucket washing their children in the dirt, a legless child flying a kite and beautifully dressed women on motorbikes. We pass by the slums the rickshaw wallahs likely live in, depicting scenes of children playing with kites and tires, women carrying bags of plastic to sell and clothes hanging from everywhere. Adjacent to gleaming malls and billboards advertising infinity pools. So much contrast, it is difficult to take it all in.

Beauty wears a different color here.






Thursday, December 20, 2012

Welcome to India

First impressions?

India seems to defy impression. Although I have only seen a small bit of it.

Adjectives?

Chaotic, beautiful, dirty, loud, cosmopolitan, backward, modern, traditional - the contrast goes on and on.



I am currently staying in Northern Mumbai and have not yet been far. So, warning to the reader, my impressions have not been severely tested. The family of my friend is lovely and very welcoming. I knew them in Saudi Arabia ten years ago when I studied there, so feeling comfortable in their home has been no problem. I arrived very late on Monday night, about 1:00am and was not out of customs until 3:00am. Baggage claim was a WARZONE. I have never seen such a thing. I had to stand on top of my metal trolley to see over people's head to find my bag, which seemed to zoom at three times the speed of baggage carousals in the States. I just stood there in amazement for a bit, exhausted from traveling for 24 hours an the world seeming a haze of movement and noise around me. A girl I met on the plane tapped me on the shoulder and said, "Welcome to India" with a grimace, as the left me to dive for her bag. Coming out of customs, I saw four or five westerners lying on the tile of the airport floor, using their backpacks as pillows and all looking vaguely sick and drained. I can imagine myself looking like that four months from now.

I live in a highrise, with a tractor factory to the right and a slum to the left. The shift change at 430am wakes me every morning, and I imagine all the workers walking back and forth beneath me.

India, while chaotic, seems to move at a slower pace than the States. Life, in this family, revolves around food. Lentils are soaked for hours in the early morning and meals are planned. I spend my mornings having chai outside on the patio and early evenings are reserved for tea time and biscuits. Dinner is late, although early by traditional Indian standards - 8:00pm the past two nights. It is a change, but one I am getting slowly used to.

I will write a separate entry on my first rickshaw ride. What an experience.


Thursday, December 13, 2012

Introduction!

Namaste!

This blog is intended to inform my friends and family of my adventures during my fourish (?) months spent in the country. I will begin in Mumbai, where I will spend the holidays and than spend three months volunteering with a school in Jaipur, in the north. If you have seen Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, than you know the city already. After that - well, who knows. Family circumstances may limit my trip, which means I will have a few weeks post-volunteer site to visit my highlights.  Kerala. Goa. Dharamasala.

The truth is that I don't enjoy writing blogs.My writing becomes stilted and I just...ugh. HOWEVER, I recognize how many people want to know how I am. And where I am. Coming to India is something that many people back home will not/can not do. So, hopefully, this blog will be a taste of that for all who may never travel to this country. A close friend advised me to incorporate fictitious elements in my blog and let the reader chose the reality. Such as, found myself sitting next to a dashing Indian man on my flight to Mumbai. We sipped chai and discovered a mutual love for British comedy, in which, upon arriving at our destination, he revealed he was the son of a Rajastani maharaja and whisked me away to his island paradise for the week. 

I may go more subtle.

I don't really know what India will be like. Another friend of mine told me to travel there with no expectations. No judgments. That India is a place where the whole world can be found. The images of Westerners who come here to "find themselves" are laughable ones. And that is not my feeling anyway.

Rather, I think I am searching to learn how to be present. To discover the joy of awareness. To push beyond my limits. To, as Thoreau said, fish in the stream of time. I bought a book the other day in a dusty bookshop near Dupont Circle. The author states that, through meditation, all of Walden Pond can be found within your breath. That idea...is beyond calming. Reminding me of a day in May when I ate tacos and watched the sunset over that very pond. And thought, so this is travel. The act of gathering places to take with you.

If things go well, I will a) limit movie references in future posts b) actually update this blog and c) have a wonderful, challenging, limit pushing vibrant, enlightening experience. I hope I get along with the children I will teach and that I don't get attacked by monkeys in my sleep. Finally, I hope I can live up to Thoreau in a small way. To discover the beauty of the moment itself, rather than striving for success and missing the moments in front of me. The chaos of India may be quite different from the idyllic New England setting where he wrote Walden. But it will suit me. And if it doesn't, there is always Thailand.

Namaskar!