Just a Glimpse

The third-level class. I like it when the monkeys come and sit on the ramparts, since it is an open classroom. They listen well, but are a bit chatty. And are under strict no-biting instructions.

The 16th century Rajput wall, seen from above in the City Palace. It is this wall that circles the Foundation.

The Jaigarh Fort, built in the 10th century. Fun fact, it hosts the largest cannon in the world. And it is entirely useless. Size is, indeed, hardly everything.

Let us Begin

Hello, dear friends and family. I know it has been a while since I have written. I have been so busy experiencing that writing has taken second place. There is much I want to say, but in consideration of my readers, I will simply summarize my overall experience and than describe, in detail, the memories that stick out most. Life may be short, but my this blog entry likely won’t be. As I say to my children here, “Let us begin.”

It has been almost a full month since I arrived in Jaipur. While the initial two weeks were erratic, things are finally getting into a schedule. Geeti has joined me and the addition of her here has been wonderful, both from a teaching and an emotional standpoint. It is much nicer exploring the city with a partner in crime, than on my own. I have cemented my teaching plans, both for the teachers and the students, and feel at home.  I visited the Amber and Naigarh Fort, as well as the City Palace and the Janter Manter (observatory). I even ventured out of Jaipur to neighboring Ajmer and saw my first glimpses of rural Indian life. Goats. Women carrying water. The tendency for Indian highway drivers to drive into oncoming traffic, no problem. At one especially harrowing moment, when my hands flew up to my face with a cry as we narrowly avoided a collision with a tractor, my driver (who I stand in perpetual awe of due to his uncanny ability to navigate Indian traffic), just turned to me and said “India” with a smug, incredibly badass smile. Of course. What was thinking. That was all I needed to know.

The past few days have been a break from teaching, as I attended the Jaipur Literary Festival with Geeti and Deeraj, a new friend from Delhi who stayed at Tushita House during his time in Jaipur. The festival, the largest in South Asia, featured hundreds of authors, literary critics, philosophers, journalists, economists and Indian literati. The Westerns present ranged from college professors to backpackers and provided much visual entertainment. I didn’t talk to as many people as I would have liked, although I did share my cookie with a little girl who sat down next to me quietly near this fountain where I was having a coffee break. It seemed only natural to give her half of my food, to which she said a quiet “thank you” and than toddled off. I can only assume to listen to a lecture on literary critique. As all six-year olds are apt to do.

Now, the festival is over and it is back to the real world and to the joyous, challenging exercise that is teaching.  I am pleased to report that I am finally remembering names and the children take such joy when I can greet them with an “Good afternoon Lali/Talib/Anjli/Monica/Tanu” and so forth. On Saturdays, we dance and the children love teaching me the songs and laughing with me as I try (vainly) to imitate their steps. I am teaching on my own now, with an aim to increase their ability to express themselves creatively. I center each lesson around the idea of Art: We Create, and encourage them to think for themselves. Which is no small thing. And is super challenging. I arrive home exhausted and ready for mindless television. But, every day is something new and wonderful. The joy of working with children is that they can always teach you something.

This past Thursday we celebrated Republic Day at the Foundation, which is the holiday celebrating the signing of the Indian Constitution. As with all festivities, class is cancelled and the children and teachers congregate on the rooftop terrace of the building. This is my favorite place in all of Jaipur and Amber, as I may have mentioned. It is as close to hiking as I can get here. Brightly painted white and blue rooftops and houses lay out before me, hugged by three low-elevation mountain ranges that drift off into the distance. Kites are always present in the sky and the 16th Century Rajput wall built to defend the old capital skirts over the hills, giving the scenery a touch of whimsy and a fairy tale-esque ambience. The children love to see me dance to Bollywood songs and traditional Rajasthani music, and I do my best. I put on Bulletproof by La Roux for them as a change of pace, turned around and fifty pairs of eyes stared back at me, silently, waiting for me to teach them the corresponding dance. When trying to explain that most American songs don’t have actual dances got me nowhere, I made one up on the fly. And they did exactly what I did. So, my apologies La Roux - your hit song now has choreography featuring elements of the Chicken dance, MC Hammer and the Hand Jive. With some random twirling mixed in for fun.

Now, the teachers. The teachers may be, possibly more than the children, my favorite part about this placement. There are six of them ranging in age from 20-30 and are named Payal, Prianka, Ruksar, Geeta, Soonam and Ruchi. All born and raised in the village, at first they were very soft-spoken and overly-formal with me. My response was to be as outgoing as possible, in hopes they would see how desperately I want to be friends with them. And, so we are. While I love all the teachers, Ruskar and I are the closest and have wonderful discussons together .She is absolutely beautiful with an air of elegance about her, and is DESPERATE to increase her already high level of English. I have never seen anyone with such a desire to learn something. She is more open than the others, and gives me a glimpse into her world and the Indian woman perspective that I so want. She has asked me multiple times about whether women in America have “restrictions” placed on them and whether I am permitted to marry whomever I chose. The caste system troubles her, which is the first time I have heard an Indian person say such to me.

Every morning, we work with the teachers on English comprehension and speaking. Yesterday, I gave them Robert’s Frosts “The Road Not Taken” and we will continue to discuss it throughout the week. The largest thing is confidence. Two of the teachers are incredibly shy, and tears form in their eyes whenever I ask them to speak, which makes me feel awful and slightly like my old sixth grade teacher. I bought them journals to write in as well, so maybe that will be a better tool for the reserved ladies. Trial and error.

Now, I am just back from teaching, utterly exhausted and ready for dinner. Jaipur is a lovely city, as I have said, and I look forward to traveling to neighboring sights with Geeti in the coming weekends. So, yes - I am well and happy. And will write again soon.

Images of Jaipur (sans imagination)

For all you without Facebook. One elephant, two kite fliers, one museum and one old palace.

Tushita Foundation - Promo

If you care to see how adorable the kids I work with are, check out the promo video my organization just put out. Heart strings = tug.

http://vimeo.com/57334810

Half the Sky

If you are interested in learning more about the plight of women and girls around the world (access to education just one of the barriers they face) PLEASE check out the Half the Sky Movement, by Nicholas Kristof and Sheryl WuDunn. A book for those literary inclined and a documentary (featuring famous female celebs) for those telly inclined.

If you don't know it, how can you change it?*

*said by me

While We Can

Well, I have survived my first two weeks in Jaipur. Survived is hardly an apt word to describe my condition, since my standard of living has increased dramatically since coming here. Apart from being extremely sick of paneer (its a hard cheese served for dinner, guys) and waging more than a few battles with the shower (your primary function is to provide hot water, you superfluous junk). Other than that, I don't clean, I don't cook and I don't do my laundry.

What, may you ask, do I do?

The best part of the day are my kids. EASILY. I go into the Foundation in the afternoon and spend about four hours with a variety of ages on a variety of subjects. These first days have been restricted to observing, taking notes and communicating with the teachers about English levels. This week I will actually throw myself to the masses and begin teaching on my own. I have devised a loose set of lesson plans for each class, as the level of English varies greatly. But I won't bore you with those. 

The children are....inspiring, fun, funny, easygoing, beautiful, LOUD and eager to learn. They attend the Foundation after already going to government school in the day and they do so voluntarily. Can you imagine? But they come, every day, willing to learn. While I love the boys, I confess that my heart is with the girls. Perhaps it is because I know how difficult things will be for them as they grow and face societal/community/economic/family pressure to abandon their education. When they all tell me they want to be doctors and lawyers, I can't help but think "God, I hope so. But probably not." BUT, they are in school now and the least I can do is teach them as much as I can. While they can. 

Jaipur and the village of Amber are beautiful and historical. I consistently entertain fantasies of maharajas on horseback with curved blades riding into the sunset, with the Amber Fort behind them. I am all alone here still, so I have a lot of time. And opportunities to entertain myself.

Posts and more pictures coming soon!

Jaipur, Finally

JAIPUR!

Also, the Pink City and the capital of Rajasthan. (more on how it is not really pink in a following entry).

This is the city I will live in for the next three months as a volunteer teacher with the Tushita Foundation. Thank you to everyone who listened to me deliberate, worry, agonize and deliberate again about this decision - a special nod to Ramina Johal, Robin Rue, Sint Sint Moe Canode, Eileen McDonald, Shadie Tofigh, Stephanie Flaster and oh my lord I have vented to way too many people. Thanks guys. 

I left Mumbai on Thursday morning, sick, my hands literally shaking from nerves. I am not so sure what I was so fearful about - as always with anxiety, the reasons behind it can be somewhat complex. Perhaps because I have planned for this so long (years) and worked hard for it, I was nervous that it wouldn't turn out. Worry is like a rocking chair - it takes so much energy, but you really get nowhere. 

HOWEVER, now I am here. And it is wonderful. The city is beautiful, my apartment is adorable and clean and homey and I have two "bodyguards/chefs/houseboys" to look after me. Which has been the strangest thing to get used to, actually. Having house servants is a very normal thing in this country, but for independent Americans, it can take some getting used to. I have affectionately nicknamed the smaller man, whose real name is Beam, 'Dobby,' as he is tiny and perpetually wears a hat resembling a tea-cozy. I debated whether this nickname could be construed as derogatory by my readers, and than decided no way - Dobby was a kick-ass house elf who fought against repression and injustice, actually died trying to save Harry Potter's life (that useless boy) and loved socks (so do I.). I digress. So yes, Dobby is a wonderful homage for the nice man who cooks non-spicy food for me and got all wet trying to help me work the shower this morning.* I haven't yet settled on a fitting identity for the second man, Lan Sing, who speaks a bit of English and brought me eight bananas when I told him I liked them. In perfect Hindi, I may add. 

I am living on top of a travel agency, as the school is run as an extension of the business. My residence is located upstairs, in a very airy and open apartment. There is a tiny kitchen, a small dining room and two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Since I am arriving before Geetika, the other volunteer, I chose the bedroom with the en-suite and smaller bed and closest to the road. The other room is quieter, as it faces away from the street, but I liked the blue decorations of the other room and the large windows. However, my favorite feature of my new home has to be the open veranda, which is large and allows me full view of the surrounding neighborhood. I drink my chai there in the mornings in the sun and watch the vegetable vendors sell their wares up and down the street.

I am the only volunteer here presently, as Geetika will arrive apparently in a couple weeks time. She has been held back in Dharamasala at her current volunteer post, but will be joining me as my partner to work with the children and teachers. My official workday begins tomorrow, although I was taken to the school on my first day by Veena, the program director. The school is located outside of Jaipur, in a neigboring village called Amber and the road is scenic, taking me through the old city and the “Wind Palace” (more on this later), past the Water Palace and winding past the Forts in the distance. Elephants and horses joined us on the road, which is tree-lined and winds towards Amber gracefully. I am so grateful to be away from the relative chaos of Mumbai and the endless traffic. The environment really reminds me of Arizona, to be honest - rocky and open with small trees and brush.

The school is small and how I imagined it, with a small sign declaring “Tushita” over the door and a chalkboard with an inspiring quote greeting the visitor. The lower level features a small office, with drawings and photographs of the children and past volunteers. Across from the office is a small classroom, where the little ones learn. I was unable to spend much time with them on my first visit, and look forward to getting to know them better on Monday. The older classes learn upstairs in three different classes, separated by age and English-speaking abilities. As Veena had to tend to other visitors, after introducing me to the teachers and students, I was left alone to observe and interact. I did not want to interrupt the lessons, but the children were so excited to have me there, I fear that happened anyway. I can already tell that they are eager to learn and impress, and feel confident in their English. While I stood behind the class in the older classes, with the younger children aged about 10-13, I sat directly on the mat with them on the floor. They all thought this was very funny and were very happy to have me check their notebooks and write my autograph for them. They all asked my hobbies and where I was from and how long I was staying. The teachers are around my age and will also need basic help in English, although I am still unsure as to the extent. 

Everything is still new and raw, but I truly think I will do well here. There is so much to learn and to discover and new challenges to face. And I am sure it will be difficult and lonely at times, but that is perfectly alright.

Pictures will come. My wireless isn't working yet (in India, everything in its own time) so I cannot post the ones I have taken. I can hardly wait to visit the historical forts and palaces here, as well as the surrounding areas. I am nervous for tomorrow, but excited as well to form relationships with these children and test my teaching abilities.

More to come!

*My apologies to all people who have not read/watched HP. You missed out.